Occasionally, in New York eateries, you come across the “one trick pony”. A restaurant where the production of one thing seems to take precedence over the rest of the menu. When a particular item comes naturally, while the rest of the business is an afterthought.
At B&H, a small diner on 2nd ave. between St. Marks & 9th St, the world revolves around challah. The majority of their food, while satisfying, is mediocre at best. Fortunately everything comes with two thick slices of perfect challah. Hard crispy crust around a soft chewy dough, smeared with too much butter. If you’re lucky you will get there while it’s warm.
It seems as though there is a constant challah-cycle going on. Fluffy proofed dough coming out of a fridge and going into an oven: coming out of the oven and onto a cooling rack. And from there to the cooks station where it is sliced and buttered to order. They move a lot of this stuff and I will make any excuse to help myself to more.
But the best excuse B&H offers is a steamy bowl of borscht, great for challah dipping. The matzo ball soup is good too. And any sandwich made with the challah and grilled is worth trying. The tuna melt is especially yummy, in a diner kind of way.
It would seem that B&H is not worth a special trip, to go out of your way for a slice of good bread. But if you’re in the neighborhood with an appetite, give it a try and you will find yourself making your way back for another helping.
2 comments:
Chef Josh, I was hoping you would include this place. The challah is superb, but this is also my favorite place for a veggie omelet - they grill a mountain of veggies, then three eggs and their home fries are really great. If my Jewish grandmother could make it to NY I'd take her here for borscht and challah for sure.
Chef Josh, I loved your descriptions of these restaurants and your little history! You made it fun. I will look for new additions! Carolyn L.
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